Thursday, 15 May 2014

Pattern Notebook: Grainline Maritime shorts

Maritime shorts and Built by Wendy running top

Guys it was HOT in LA the last week.  What do clever people do when it's hot? Probably not go to the desert, but actually, I think it was cooler in Joshua Tree than it was back in LA. 

Still, summer weather is here, and I needed some new shorts, I busted out the Grainline Maritime shorts which had been burning a whole in my stash for months, and I'm really glad I did.  I didn't have the trip planned when I made them, but it worked out for a pretty nice photo shoot!  I'm in Ireland right now, and I'm going to see if I can get a few more things photographed in fun locations.  I still have such a backlog!

Pattern Notebook

Size used: Size 8, I made the Moss skirt in a 10, but I guess the running is making a difference because I now match the size 8 body measurements and my moss is a little big on me.

Fabric Used: Stripy linen from The Fabric Store - I only got one yard, and I had plenty despite stripe matching most pieces, this is such a fabric economical pattern!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Not a single thing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Absolutely, but I did use the Jeanius fly instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the fit, the length was perfect for me, it's great to have pockets too.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the finished garment? I was a little worried at first that the shorts could very on the clowny/circusy, but the lovely people of instagram and twitter reassured me that they didn't have to be, and now that I've worn them a bunch, I love them so much.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely! I'm almost certainly going to be making this pattern up in the blue or red denim that I have, maybe both!

Construction notes: 

I do not usually make any pattern efforts at all.  I constantly see mismatching patterns in RTW, and it's not that I think that if RTW does it that it's good, but rather that most people (including myself before I sewed this much) don't notice it at all.  However this fabric would look kind of weird if I didn't make some attempts to match at least the CF and the CB.  I'm pretty sure I would have totally messed this up if I hadn't read Lladybirds fantastic post on plaid matching last year.  The fabric is exactly the same both sides, so it made it easy to cut out the fabric for one side:

And then use that piece to cut out the other side:

I drew the blue lines on the pattern piece for the front before I cut it out, and then lined up the front facing and continued the blue lines on to it.

Then I made sure the blue lines were in the same place for the front facing.

I did a similar process for the back pockets.  I experimented with the idea of having the lines alternate, but I didn't think it looked nice, so I just went with matching up instead.

Lots of people might already know to do this, but I've discovered through lingerie sewing, that it's sometimes helpful to put weights on the fabric outside the pattern as well as on the pattern piece when rotary cutting small pieces. It really helps preventing it from shifting around.

that might have been overkill...

I made the pocked lining out of white linen left over from a shirt for Mr. McCall, the stripy linen isn't totally opaque so I didn't want lots of layers of stripes showing through.

And that's all the construction notes I have.  I don't seem to have recorded my stitch settings, oops.

Don't tell anyone, but I totally wore these to the beach one day, and then two days in a row in the desert.   I think it's safe to say that I love them.

Maritime shorts and bamboo Burda 6990

Bonus lizard pic!

Keep well everyone.


aleah said...

Nice! Oh, this just reminds me that I have so many shorts I want to make right now! I think if you're gonna use a fabric you're on the fence about, crazy-wise, shorts are the perfect way to use it. (I'm totally making shorts out of that teal zebra twill you gave me.) I think these are great and not at all circusy.
Isn't Joshua tree great? So many good photo ops. And boulder scrambling is too fun. But what a contrast to go from that to Ireland! Glad you're having some vacations now!

erin said...

I love your shorts! They turned out fantastic & great job on the stripe matching. No judging on wearing them so frequently - that's always a sign of a successful garment!