Sunday, 27 April 2014

Jeanius Jeans Fly front Cheat sheet

My last post on my jeans was getting a bit long, so I've separated out my notes on the fly construction.  Kenneth Kings method is a little different than others I've seen, and importantly it doesn't have the cut on facings, which are in most tutorials including the great one by Debbie Cook.  I haven't seen any RTW jeans with cut on facings, I think that the bulk of the sewn-on facing and fly shield is a signature of the classic jean. As I said in my last post, I think that this method is almost the same as this one by Lisa G, but it's just different enough, that I want to have my own cheat sheet to help me for the next time.  (How many pairs do you think I can get out of that stack of denim??)

So here's my fly front cheat sheet.

I'm copying the jeans below, so I've got the fly shield on the left and the facing on the right.

Line up the fly facing with the right side

The facing on my RTW jeans  goes to 4.75" below the waistband, so I just copied that:

I'm measuring the length of the facing from the waistband stitching line

My stitching line looks wonky because I was stitching on my adjusted crotch curve, ideally it would be an even distance from the edge of the fabric.

Trim the seam allowance, and clip to the stitching line on the front and the facing

Turn the facing the the inside, and topstitch just past the facing

OK! Now the left side - 

Below, the Center front is the red chalk line on both jeans.  On my RTW jeans the left front is turned about 3/8 past the CF.  I've marked the turning line in white. 

I'm going to clip in to the left front at the same distance from the waistband as the right front.

Pin the zipper to the left front, the teeth aren't right up against the fold, there's about a 1/4" there

Re-pin, this time adding the fly shield behind the zipper

Stitch close to the fold through all thicknesses, my RTW jeans use topstitching thread here, so that's what I did.

Here's the view from the inside

Now to put them together!

Line up the two fronts and sew through to the crotch

Again, the stitching line looks wonky because of my fitting adjustments. Just sew the seam with your normal seam allowance.

I start right at the fold so it turns neatly.

Pin the right front along the red chalk CF line, so the fly is lined up where it will be in the end.

At this stage I trimmed the CF seam and got it ready for flat felling

Using cheater wonder tape

I just did the first row of top-stitching the felling, because doing the other side would have caught up the facing in a weird way. 

OK, back to the fly - pin the facing to the zipper only

Zipper only!

Flip the whole thing around and re-pin, so you can sew with the zipper on top. Pin the fly shield out of the way

My RTW jeans attached the zipper with two lines of stitching here, so I just copied them.

Chalk on the line of top-stitching, make sure your fly shield is still out of the way in the back. I did two lines of stiching a little closer together than the other topstitching, again copying my RTW jeans.

You should be able to sew up to the CF line without catching the shield

I didn't quite make it to the CF because I'm a scaredy cat

Next I un-pinned the fly shield and added some bar tacks to hold the shield in place at the bottom. 

I was topstitching on the featherweight, which doesn't have zig zags so these bar tacks will have to do.

All done!

Hope that will be helpful in future. I seem to forget to read my own notes to myself!


Nakisha said...

Thank you for sharing!

Caroline said...

Oh Sandra - I wish you had been there when I was sewing my jeans! This is a great tutorial. I'm Pinning it for next time. Miss you.

Galica said...

Brilliant cheat sheet. Not only do I plan to nick the technique, but I will be pinching the tutorial technique too! Thank you!

aleah said...

Wow, interesting! It's nice to see another way of constructing a fly. I must confess that the only way I've ever done it is the instructions in the Thurlow pattern, which is much more different from this than I would have thought. So you do the fly before sewing the crotch seam? The Thurlow is the opposite.
I will say that the fly is one of those things I can only figure out when I have the actual pieces in front of me. Even with pictures my brain just gives up. Next fly I make I'll have to compare to this and see if I like your method better!