Saturday, 2 February 2013

Pattern Notebook: Rinse and Repeat - Maternity S2451

Simplicity 2451 Maternity Skirt

View / Size used: C / Size 14

Fabric Used: Wool suiting from Mood, mystery lining fabric I found in my old room in my parents house, yoke is the same stuff as the last version.


The last version must have been a success because my sister liked the black denim maternity version of Simplicity 2451 so much that she asked for another. This is the fifth or sixth time I've made this skirt, but it's never been exactly the same twice. For this iteration, my sister wanted something to wear to work, so I made it out of a really nice pinstripe wool, this time adding a lining.

I didn't really know how to pre-treat the wool, so I went by the instructions on Off the Cuff, and put it in the dryer wrapped up in wet towels.  I found that the wool was actually dry before the towels, so I took them out after a reasonably short time.  I wasn't careful to measure before and after or anything remotely like that, so I have no idea if the pretreatment did anything at all.

I managed to lose the piece I'd drafted for the pregnancy version of the front yoke, so I had to do it again.  Here's a picture of what I did:

I just basically added a little to the centre front by pivoting the center, and added about 4.5" to the height.  I gave the back yoke the same increase in height, but didn't add any more to the circumference.

I actually had to take an inch off both sides of the knit yokes to match it up with the woven skirt, I really don't know how that happened, but if you're going to do this yourself, perhaps it's a good idea to baste on the yoke first to see how it matches up.

When my sister tried it on, it was actually too big right at the top, so I probably shouldn't have pivoted the CF, but she's still not quite 6 months along, so maybe she'll fill it all out soon.

I used my clear ruler to line up the grainline with the pinstripes, but I made no attempt to match pinstripes at the sides.

I actually botched cutting out the lining at first, forgetting that the lining shouldn't have the cut-out areas where the pocket's go.  I re-cut the lining by placing the pocket facing piece on top of the front piece.  Since I was cutting out with my rotary cutter, I didn't need to re-trace the pattern piece.

I cut the front piece of the fashion fabric on the fold, but I had a lot of trouble getting the pinstripes to line up properly for the other pieces on both sides of the fabric, so I resorted to cutting it all out on a single layer of fabric.  

I used my tracing wheel to transfer the grainline to the back side of the pattern page.

It's really cool to work with real wool, I can see why tailors can use chalk all the time, it really shows up so well on the dark suiting.

I sort of winged adding the lining, I just stitched it to the wool within the seam allowance after I'd attached the zip already.  Then I slip stitched the lining to the zip.  I'm sure there's a better way to do it, but I've never lined anything before, so I was making it up as I went along.  I wish I could tell you that I knew what on earth I did with the lining and the vent area, but honestly I winged that too, and I didn't take any pictures.  It looked OK, I think.

And there it is, maternity skirt number 2.  I think I might be done with maternity wear for now.  I may do a top in the future, but I'm really looking forward to making something for myself soon!

Machines / settings used: 
Featherweight for construction and topstitching, 8ish stitches per inch.

I used a stretch stitch on my Janome 7318 to topstitch the knit yoke

I hand-stitched the hem on the main fabric.

Brother 1034D serger to finish seams.
Differential Feed: 1
Stitch Length: 4
Stitch Width: 6.5
Tensions:  Left Needle: 3.5, Right Needle: 3.5, Upper Looper: 4, Lower Looper: 5

Happy weekend, everyone!


The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a nice sister you are! I bet she will end up wearing this skirt at least once a week, if not more. Perfect for work.

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks Trena!

liza jane said...

How nice of you to sew maternity things for your sister! And yes I can guarantee she'll wear it tons. It's so nice to have something new when your belly doesn't allow you to fit in to any of your normal clothes!