Friday, 14 September 2012

Bread: Jeanius J-Crew copies

I wear jeans to work, I wear them at home, I wear them if I'm going out with a nice top.  If making a fancy blouse is akin to frosting, and a pencil skirt to go with it is cake, well, jeans are my daily bread.

Pattern Notebook

Craftsy Jeanius copy of J-Crew Cords

View / Size used: 
I copied a size 28R pair of jeans, and copied some topstitching details from other RTW jeans

Fabric Used: 
The first version's fabric had no stretch and no recovery, and after I've been sitting on my butt all day, the backside of the jeans gets all bagged out.  This time I made the jeans from a medium weight denim with a little stretch.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
I took in the sides and CB a little between the hip and waist, probably to account for the stretch

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions were fantastic. Lots of super extra close ups. I personally learned a lot just watching KK sew.  I LOVE that the videos actually show him at the machine, backstitching first, clipping his threads, doing all the small things that are good habits to develop.  It's just what an unsure beginner needs. He also explains why he does something, and not just what he's doing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the finished garment?

I wasn't happy with the waistband in my previous version, so I used some tricot fusible on one side of the waistband on this one. KK has you make the waistband on the crossgrain as one piece, and then press a curve in to the fabric. Since I used stretch denim the curve didn't really stay, and I'm not sure if it was totally effective.

I'm not 100% certain I like the lower leg as narrow as it it, but I left a generous SA so I can let it out a little if I want to later.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I probably will use the pattern I created again, but not for a while. I do plan to make more trousers and I'll probably refer to the craftsy class for help with the fly and other things. I do recommend the class to anyone, beginners especially.

Construction notes: 

Even though my first pair fit me quite well, I cut out the legs and yoke with a 1" SA and basted them together.  I made a few small adjustments, but I was surprised how little I had to change from the non-stretch pattern. 

While they were basted and adjusted I traced the seamline with a pen, then I made small arrow marks at various points along the seams, to act like notches on normal patterns.  I normally don't care too much about notches, but it's easy to make trousers look a little twisted by lining them up incorrectly.

Those notches actually proved especially useful because I totally forgot about my 1" SA and cut out the other pattern pieces as they were, with only 5/8" SA.  If I hadn't had those notches I would have had a really hard  time lining up the fly with the CF.

Machines / settings used: 
Singer Featherweights for sewing and topstitching.  I used a 10 stitch-per-inch straight stitch for sewing, 12 stitch-per-inch for topstitching.

I used a buttonholer attachment for the front buttonhole.  I used a 1 1/16" keyhole template, but didn't cut through the entire buttonhole, and reinforced it with fraycheck.

Then I had a lot of trouble getting all of the bulk of the waistband under the foot and once it was under the machine made really tiny stitches at first.  I pressed on, sometimes walking the handwheel and helping the buttonholer make full zig zags, and eventually it looked ok.

I tested the buttonholer on a sample piece of fabric first.  The denim stretched all out.  I was kicking myself that I hadn't put a little extra interfacing there.  I decided to put a little stiff muslin behind the buttonhole, and cut around it after.  It actually worked quite well. 

Brother 1034D serger to finish seams.
Differential Feed: 1
Stitch Length: 4
Stitch Width: 7
Tensions:  Left Needle: 4.8, Right Needle: 4, Upper Looper: 4.5, Lower Looper: 4.2

Trouser Geek Out: Construction Order
Trouser Geek Out / Blogger Is Weird

On A Roll - Back pockets and yoke

Review on Pattern Review
Review of previous jeans on Pattern Review


Nancy K said...

Really great jeans. Just like rtw.

pdiddly said...

I also signed up for the KK tutorial and you are right very informative. Love your jeans.

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks so much Nancy - they are like RTW, but therefore only about 5% as awesome as your leopard print trousers!

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks pdiddly - I've also made M6436 that you're working on, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

Amity Originals said...

These look amazing!!!! I'm super impressed! ....and jealous :)

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks Amity! What are you going to do with your awesome denim?

Anonymous said...

Really nice! I love the leather insert on the pocket, at least it looks like leather. These fit you really well! I just signed up for KK class on Crafty. I hope I have a decent pair of jeans to copy!

Susan C

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks so much Susan! It is real leather - it was harvested from a motorcycle jacket that someone was throwing out. I hope you love the KK class as much as I did, I think as long as you have something where the fit is pretty close, fitting shouldn't be too much trouble.

Suzanne said...

Those rock. I also bought the Jeanius class but I don't have an existing pair of jeans I want to copy! So I guess I'll have to add some readymade to my wardrobe before I can get started. I love the leather on the pockets!

Ms. McCall said...

Thanks so much Suzanne! I know a lot of people have good luck with the Jalie jeans pattern - maybe that could be a good starting point for you?