Well, it mostly fits. I find that my impression of how a bra fits can change over a few wears, so I'm going to give this one a few weeks until I try again, but it's perfectly wearable and I'm a happy camper.
Where to start? I suppose the fabric and sizing.
This bra is drafted for a low to no stretch fabric. For me this was one of the biggest pro's of the pattern. Most of my Marks and Spencer bras (and I rarely wear any other RTW bras) are made from fabric that has barely any stretch but quite a lot of mechanical 'give'. The thing that I like about that fabric is that it's much better for keeping larger bosoooms in place without resorting to foam. (I do like the idea of the thin foam that Makebra uses, but my dislike of foam stems from that thick stuff Victoria's Secret uses so much of.) Not having anything exactly like that in my stash, I used a thin cotton / silk mix for the cups and front of the band.
I took a break for a few days and came to realise that I should start with fabrics with a little more give. Just like other types of garments, knits allow the fit to be a bit more forgiving. I figured that since the 36DD cups were a teensy bit too big, the 36D cup would be fine in a fabric with some stretch, so that's what I made. And it was!!
This version of the bra is made out of materials cobbled together from all over the place: the sliders and straps are harvested from and old bra, the lace and elastic is from a mystery source in Downtown LA, the casing and underwire is from Porcylenne, I think the power net is from the F&S fabrics remanent bin, and the closure is a story unto itself. I found yardage of 3-hook tape in Trim 2000 downtown, which was $4 per yard. Score, I thought. Until I tried to use it. The hook tape they sold me with the eyes didn't actually match!! Oh well. So the hooks are harvested from a bra, and the eyes are from Trim 2000.
My real saviour in this version is this absolutely lovely fabric that I bought from Elingeria. It's a knit, but with only a small amount of stretch (maybe 15%), it's thick and spongy and soft. I'm really sad that Elingeria went out of business, she had the best stuff.
I used the fabric for all three cup pieces, and then just laid the stretch lace on top of the upper cup. It was a little wider than the narrowest part of the upper cup, so I sewed the upper cup to the lower cup without catching the lace, and then let it hang over the lower cup when I attached the band. I sort of added the lace cos I couldn't figure out a better treatment for the upper cup, I don't know why I didn't think of just using some fold over elastic.
I don't know why, but previous bra sewing seemed exhausting. I would do a spurt of sewing 2 or 3 bras, only one of which would be wearable and I'd be totally emotionally drained by the whole enterprise. I don't know if I have improved or if it's this pattern, but there is something about this design that makes the order of operations really intuitive. I used to constantly mess up the order of my previous bras. Maybe that's what was exhausting. Ripping. This one just seems to be logical. I can't put my finger on what the difference is. It might be that it's about the 15th bra that I've made and have nothing to do with the pattern, who can say.
I may try to make a non-stretch version some time in the future, but I'm very happy with the support in this fabric, and I like the shape under my clothes. I'll take some future review picture with it on so you can see. ANYWAY, there was a lot of text in this post so:
It's good! Highly recommend! If you are new to making bras, it's a really good idea to have enough materials to make at least 3 bras with all identical stuff because the smallest change makes a big difference. You will probably have to make more than one to get the right size, but it's worth it, and starting with a fabric with a little stretch might get you to a good fit faster. It's a lovely bra.