Hey guys! I'm back with another round of "why did I hack that when I had not one but two wrap dresses (that I could have just hacked off the skirt of) already??" Today I actually have a legit answer, which is that I love a raglan and neither of those dresses had raglan sleeves. I've basically wanted a cosy wool ballerina wrap since forever, and this one I made a long time ago didn't really work for me in the end for reasons I'll get in to further down.
I started off with Burda 6990 (reviewed here), because it was closer fitting than my other recently hacked raglan. Now I'm realizing I could have done a second-generation hack, and I'm wishing I'd used that instead. Oh well, first generation it is.
So first, I put the top on, and drew on myself (in washable ink) where I wanted the cross over to go. Having the pattern made up, and doing it this way is a million miles easier than trying to guess where it should be by paper fitting. Does anyone actually get a good result from paper fitting? It's always been very hit-and-miss for me. It's hard to see the line, I know, but that's the nature of disappearing ink.
I made a copy of the pattern piece which was the full front rather than on the fold. My paper wasn't quite long enough, but I didn't care about losing a tiny bit of length.
Then I transferred the line from the shirt to the paper.
Smoothed it out a little with some french curves.
And put on some seam allowances. Since I had the wrap starting right at the original neckline, I needed to add a tiny bit of extra paper to have full seam allowances there.
Despite the fact that I was hacking a well-fitting top, I wanted to make a test run, before I cut in to my lovely wool. I don't seem to have any pictures of that top except for one posted on instagram. Sorry for the filter, but I usually filter my IG pictures mainly so details are visible on dark fabrics.
Bonus view of Madame wearing the burda double layer dress from 06/2013. Great pattern! Very simple. I should really review it.
The ties on the purple version were separate to the binding, but it ended up being a little bulky where the two meet. For the black wool version, I combined the binding and the ties. First, I sewed on the binding portion in the normal way (doubled over, wrong sides together), but stopped about a few inches from the side edge. Then I sewed the rest of the binding/tie right sides together to form a loop. I turned the loop right sides out, and tacked down the place where the serging and the loop met. I still wasn't happy with the flipping-out-potential of the serged seam allowances, so I zig-zagged them down. The zig zags really sink down in to the wool, I don't think they're that noticeable, but I actually like zig-zags, I know some people don't.
The main changes arising from the tester version were the side shaping on the wrap pieces.
For the underlap side, the shaping below the waist is basically surplus to requirements, and hangs in a slightly weird way, so I straightened it out.
I also shaved a little bit off the hem on the lapped side, so it wouldn't peek out.
For the overlap, I lowered the place where it wraps around me. I'm very short waisted and I need the underlap side to wrap right under my bust to be flattering, but most ballet tops have the wrap lower down. This is actually one of the reasons that most wrap tops don't work for me. There is hardly any space between my under bust and waist, so things that wrap further down the body just work their way back up. This happened so much with my previous attempt at a ballet wrap, that I donated it. You can see in the top above that the wrap is right under my bust, but in the black version the line doesn't have such a sharp turn under the bust.
I thought it would be visually nicer if the overlap side extended slightly over the side seam, so I drew the side seam line directly upwards from the widest place on the hip. I kept both sides on the same piece of paper, it's easy to just fold away the relevant pieces.
Finally, I was ready to chop in to my wool, another piece of merino from The Fabric Store. Kbenco pointed out in the comments of my merino running top, that 100% wool can sag a little over time, so I was really happy to find this black merino with 2% lycra - and in one of their periodic 30% off sales too. I want this to be close fitting, so it's nice that the lycra gives it a little extra spring. Hopefully this will stop it from bagging out over time.
It is so hard to photograph black wool!! Can you tell I was getting frustrated? I used the full sleeve, and a cuff for the wool version.
These pictures don't show off the lines very well. For some reason the best picture I have of this top was taken in the bathroom of my office. Yes... I was so excited to show this top to the world that I IG'ed it from my office lavvy.
I'm wearing it with a Grainline Moss skirt. No one needs another review of that skirt right? I made an 8 this time, and the fabric is left over from my red burda jeans.