I worked with someone a few years ago that had many, many silk shirts that were gathered around the collar. They really caught my eye, and I've been looking for a pattern to replicate them ever since. The effect was something like the picture below.
I took these pictures last March. I intended to shorten it and take it in at the sides before blogging and giving it a final verdict. I never did, so it's gone unblogged. Of ourse I've been wearing it anyway. Don't we often say as sewers that we're so lucky because we can get our clothes to fit? Ya, most of the time that doesn't apply to me.
Over the holidays Joann had one of it's rare sales on Burda (and Simplicity) envelope patterns, so I went rummaging in the drawers to see if I could see anything close. I ended up buying Burda 6839, 6840 and Simplicity 1279. Actually Burda 6839 is closer to the inspiration, but it just looks so weird in that stiff shirting fabric, I couldn't bring myself to make it up.
So back to yoke gathers I went, and made up a test version of Burda 6840.
I've only just now noticed that Vogue 1412 is closer than any of the ones I have already, and I have a few candidates in a Patrones magazine. I may keep trying to get this right!
Shirts with no sleeves are surprisingly fast to make! This shirt has the added benefit of getting the button holes out of the way at the beginning of the process. Now that I think about it, that was probably why this shirt got done in basically one sitting, usually button up shirts spend about 10 days on the back of my chair waiting for me to get the buttonholer out. I kinda-sorta should get the buttonholer back out to do the final button hole in the collar, but we all know that is never going to happen.
View / Size used: View A, size 10 for the neckline and shoulders to the bottom of the armscye, 12 for body. That's 36/38 in euro sizes. I normally use 38 in burda, but I compared the finished bust measurement to my far-too-big butterick and there seemed to be pretty generous ease in the bust. Normally that's a good thing, but I didn't want that area to be too bulky in the stiffer fabric I was using. I'm considering using a 38/40 combo if I make this up in flowy silk. For reference the finished bust measurement of the Size 10 butterick shirt was 45.5", in this shirt it was 42.5".
Fabric / Notions Used: A fairly light cotton shirting with no stretch. It's got a nice sheen to it, but no drape. I can't remember where it's from. I thought it would be fun to use some contrast pink buttons under that covered placket. I got them from Nhi's giant bag 'o buttons (seen in this post - how many of those have you used Nhi??).
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Apart from grading between sizes, not much. I did turn my back pleat the other way out. Is this a men/women thing? Like the way the fly opens one way or the other? A quick survey of J Crew and Banana Republic tells me most women's shirts don't have any pleat, but the ones that do, have the pleat the way I've sewn it.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, I've found Burda envelope patterns fine for the most part. I liked that they had you apply the bias binding while the side seam is open, it makes for less stress trying to get it just the right length.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the design. It's not the one that I was looking for, but it's very nice all the same.
I don't know if there's a drafting error, but my collar seemed to be too long when I pinned it, but then not as bad when I actually sewed it, so I had to rip and re-sew a few times. In the end I took a little off one end of the collar stand, so their not actually symmetrical. I'll never close it up so it will never matter that much.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the finished garment?
I like it more than I thought I would in the shirting. I like the length and the fit in the front. The back is far too big, I could easily eliminate the pleat, and actually take some darts back there.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm not sure if I'll bother with the silk version, but I would recommend it. Watch out for the collar length. If you sew it on using Andrea's method, you can adjust as necessary on the fly.
The concealed placket was so easy, I might do it that way in future - not only do you do the buttonholes first, but if they're wonky, no one will see! Not much else to say on construction except to record my settings.
Machines / settings used:
Featherweight, 10 stitches per inch for construction, 7 stitches per inch for topstitching.
Rolled hem using roll hem foot, had to adjust tension for this foot, not sure why, longer topstitch worked better.
Singer buttonholer on featherweight for buttons, 1/2" template, W: 4
Brother 1034D serger to finish side seam, the only seam needing finishing.
Differential Feed: 1.5
Stitch Length: 5
Stitch Width: 5.7
Tensions: Left Needle: 4, Right Needle: 4.2, Upper Looper: 4, Lower Looper: 4
I tried to get modeled pictures when I took the pictures of my jeans, but this is the only one in focus! Oh well, hopefully you get a sense of the shirt from the dress form.
See you guys soon!